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Standing on 14 peaks of 8000 meters of snow-capped mountains, how hard is it?

December 11, 2023

This is one of the things that money cannot do.

There are only 14 snow-capped mountains above 8,000 meters in the world, and the climbing of these 14 peaks is the highest honor in the mountaineering world. However, as of now, only dozens of people in the world have completed this feat.

Completing the climb of 14 8,000-meter snow-capped mountains is an extremely difficult challenge. Perhaps you will think that the main difficulty lies in not having sufficient funds.

In fact, many of the 14 snow-capped mountain peaks are ordinary climbers. Many of the difficulties they face are ahead of the money.

Climbing the peak requires courage, not to mention climbing 14 snow mountains that are 8,000 meters above sea level. For the climbers, behind this supreme honor, they must bear great psychological pressure.

Difficulty 1: A Great Psychological Challenge
When the climbers decided to climb the 14 8,000-meter snow-capped mountains, including the entire climbing process, invisible psychological pressure has been lingering in the minds of the climbers.

The pressure of opposition from friends and relatives - once the mountain is selected, it means that the climber has given up the quiet life, and has spent less time with his family and the pressure of opposing friends and relatives.


There is an unknown risk in the distance, weighing everything, and the climbers need great courage to set off.


Strict self-control - 8000 meters peak will not let any of the climber's negligence, test the body and technology of the climber, which requires the strong self-control of the climber to endure boring training.



Strong willpower - In the course of years of climbing, climbers will encounter bad environment, experience failures, and even experience teammates' casualties. They need a strong will to face the next climb.

Today, when I look back on the nights and nights in the Himalayas in the past 16 years, I can't forget the moments I could barely hold; I can't forget the fear of those 8,000-meter peaks; I can't forget my doubts about my abilities. How did you torture me? (Source: "Messner - 14 seats 8 km", [Italy] Rheinhold Messner)

Climbing 14 8,000-meter snow-capped mountains is not an overnight event. It is a matter of spending more than a decade or even decades on mountain climbers.

Difficulties II: Long climb cycles
The mountain is there, but it is not always possible to climb. It takes a long time to climb every 8000m of snow-capped mountains, and the window period left for climbers is very short, resulting in a very long climbing cycle and requiring climbers to “consume”.


Limited climbing window period – The complex climate of the 8,000-meter-long snow-capped mountains is often unpredictable even in a day, not to mention the thunderstorms that occur throughout the year, and the time available for climbers is limited.



Climbers must avoid the rainy season and the severe cold winter. These seasons require frequent avalanches or cruel wind and snow. They are the climate exclusion zone for mountaineering. In only a few months of the year, there will be a few days of good weather, allowing climbers to see the pin and climb.

Every year from early June to mid-September, heavy snowstorms and avalanches frequently occur, stirring up snow and fog. From mid-November to mid-February in the following year, the northwestern wind blows over the south to bring the temperature of the peak to -60°C. Only in the spring of the beginning of March to the end of May of each year, or the fall of early September to the end of October, the weather is relatively stable, and there may be several good weather conditions. (Source: China Tibet Network "Luo Zi Feng (8516 meters)")

A single climb can take a long time - it takes a few weeks or even months for climbers to climb from mountain to mountain.




The 14 8000-meter-long snow-capped mountains are located in the remote Himalayan and Karakoram mountains. The proximity is poor and the surrounding areas are rarely visited. The climbers need to change to various means of transportation and go hiking for a few days.

For example, the mountain pass of K2 (K2) makes climbers miserable:

The K2's approach to the mountain is very long. From Scarto, after 10 hours of bumpy cars, arrive in Ascoli. From here on, we all need to rely on our feet. It takes seven days to get to the base camp. It takes seven to eight hours a day and camps on the way in the evening. (Source: Zhang Jingchuan, National Geographic of China, "I Have a Dream with K2")

The time required for climbers to climb is long. Climbing a snow-capped mountain 8000 meters, along the way need to set up a number of camps, to complete the long journey.



In the event of failure, it will take another year to battle - after a long and arduous climb, if the summit fails because of sudden changes in the weather or physical injuries, climbers will have to fight for another year.


It took a long time to complete all the time - during the year, the time available for climbing was extremely limited, and each climb took a long time, so the climbers could only climb 1 to 2 snow-capped mountains of 8000 meters a year. To complete the climb of 14 8000-meter snow-capped mountains, climbers may need more than ten years or even decades.


Part of the climbers who climbed 14 peaks of 8000 meters and spent their time. Source: Wikipedia

This is a difficult "protracted war." In this long climbing cycle, even if every climb is successful, the climber must face at least 14 "death zones" challenges.

Difficulties 3: The Challenge of the "Death Zone"
More than 8,000 meters is called a "death zone." The thin air, treacherous terrain, and bad weather are all great challenges for climbers.



Even today, advances in technology have led to an increase in the safety of climbing. However, there are still various risks in the 8,000-meter-long snow-capped mountains that threaten the safety of climbers at all times.


The 14 8000-meter snow-capped mountains have brought various dangers to the climbers and also brought about extremely high death rates.

Difficulties 4: Extreme Mortality
The names of these 14 8,000-meter snow-capped mountains carry the dream of an outstanding human climber and have become a heavy tombstone for many climbers.

14 peak deaths of 8000 meters, as of 2012. Source: Wikipedia

From the data point of view, even Everest, which has relatively complete business services, has 4% mortality. The highest mortality rate of the Annapurna peak is as high as 33.5%.

The above difficulties are all problems faced by climbers climbing 14 8,000-meter-high snow-capped mountains. Finally, the funding issue is the problem.

Difficulties Five: Financial Support
From the moment of preparation for climbing to safe downhill, the factors of funds are of vital importance. Climbing 8000 meters of snow-capped mountains does require the climbers to have certain financial support.


The factors that affect the cost of climbing, in addition to the climber’s personal climbing equipment and transportation expenses on the road, also include costs incurred by mountaineering operators and guide services.

For example, the cost of climbing from the southern slope of Mount Everest is approximately RMB 350,000/person; climbing from the North Slope requires a cost of approximately US$50,000 per person.

To complete the climb of 14 8000 meters of snow-capped mountains, the total cost is indeed astonishing. However, as the number of completed projects increases, you can obtain funds through corporate sponsorships. By the end of the climb, this “huge sum” will not be the greatest difficulty for the climbers.

Therefore, ordinary climbers also have the opportunity to complete the climb of 14 8,000-meter snow-capped mountains.


Write last
Completing 14 8,000-meter mountain climbs is not just a money issue.

The great psychological challenges, long climbing cycles, high altitude challenges, and high mortality rates are all more difficult than capital. Even so, there are still more and more climbers on the journey to climb 14 seats.

As long as there is a dream in your heart, why do you fear the distance?

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Ms. wuxiuli

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lusia@hosun.cn

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